Cub Cadet Gt 2015 Manual 2015 Model
Lawn Tractor Transmission Type s Updated: January 2014 30-40 years ago gear drive transmissions were about the only transmission available for your tractor. They were built just like the transmissions in a Model A Ford or a 1953 Farmall tractor. Big, strong gears.
Heavy axles and cast housings. They didn’t break but they were hard to use. You had to stop the tractor to change gears and most of the time you had to wiggle the tractor to move the shifter from one gear to another. Because the transmissions were so heavy there was a lot of weight on the rear wheels and you could pull just about anything with them including moldboard plows. Because they were so heavily built they were also very heavy and would put grooves in your lawn if you mowed the same way more than once or twice. Over time we asked for lawn tractors that mowed faster, turned better and didn’t cause so much damage.
We no longer had the huge Victory Gardens that required plowing with the garden tractor and if we did we used rototillers instead. So the manufactures listened and changed from the heavy, cumbersome tractors to lightweight tractors that mowed well, mowed faster, turned easier and didn’t cause damage to our lawns. Seven Types Of Transmissions: There are now seven types of transmission found in today’s lawn tractors and zero turns. They are gear, friction disk, automatic or CVT, hydrostatic, pump/motor, electric and hybrid.
I’ll spend a few paragraphs going through each type so you have a better idea of the best type for you. I am not going into the details of how each one works.
Just Google the transmission type and you can read to your heart’s content. Gear Transmissions Twenty years ago the gear drive transmission was the most popular but today automatic hydrostatic and automatic CVT transmissions have replaced them in popularity. Often called Manual transmissions this type uses a series of gears to change the ground speed of your tractor. These transmissions are not like the older styles though.
They shift better, are much, much lighter and easier to use. They use and inline gear selector instead of the old H-pattern. The biggest downfall of this type of transmission is you have to stop the tractor to shift to a different speed (range). This makes them harder to use when you have a lot of garden beds and landscape features to go around. To drive the tractor you must push in on the clutch, shift the transmission to the gear you want to use, release the clutch, and hang on. This is a dependable transmission that will give you years of service.
Some manufactures have a shift-on-the-go transmission. This is sometimes listed as a manual transmission but it is actually a CVT. These transmissions are found on the least expensive lawn tractors and are usually listed as 6 or 7 speed.
Friction Disk Transmissions This is actually the transmission of choice for snow blowers but there are a few mowers like the Snapper Rear Engine Rider that still use this trans. It is a good, dependable transmission when used properly. It uses a friction wheel and disk to change the forward speed of your rider.
Don’t use this transmission to pull heavy loadsyou will tear up the friction wheel. You can shift-on-the-go with some models but to get the longest life most brands suggest you push down on the clutch/brake pedal and then shift to the speed you want. Automatic or CVT John Deere originally used a CVT in conjunction with a manual transmission on the Model 110. Now days, CVT’s have now matured to the point where you find them in cars, snowmobiles, snow blowers and even heavy-duty farm tractors. There are very few parts that wear in these transmissions and the recently introduced Element V from General Transmissions for your yard tractor is now stronger and requires less worry than all the hydrostatic transmissions. CVT’s for lawn tractors essentially a belt and variable pulley system similar to the drive system in a snowmobile or mini-bike. I predict that CVT transmissions will replace most of the hydrostatic transmissions within the next 5 years. MTD is using this on many of it’s least expensive lawn tractors. Using one is very much like driving your car.
Put the lever on the fender in F and then press the right foot pedal. The farther you push the pedal the faster you go. To go in reverse put the fender lever in R and press on the right foot pedal. This trans is designed to mow lawns and is not designed to pull heavy loads.
The Element V from General Transmissions is another CVT that you will now find in Yard Tractors. This transmission is tougher, lighter weight and takes less power than the very popular Tuff Torq K46 and Hydro-Gear T2 hydrostatic transmissions. In fact the RS 800 Element V transmission is power rated very close to the most popular garden tractor transmission, the Hydro-Gear G730. These transmissions are very easy to use.
Either a fender mounted lever or foot control varies the speed and direction just like the hydro transmission you are used to. These transmissions do not need maintenance and I expect them to last the life of the mower. To see how tough these new transmissions really are check out spot 1:27 in the next video! There is one other form of CVT that has the possibility of also replacing the hydrostatic transmisson.
Fallbrook has announced a commercial partnership with Hydro-Gear to bring NuVinci technology to the lawn & garden market. Instead of a variable pulley system uses a variable disk or ball/disk system. This is the transmission of the future because it uses fewer moving parts than a gear trans, can pull heavier loads than an automatic and uses less oil than a hydrostatic. At this point in time though they are not yet cost effective for lawn tractor applications. Hydrostatic The most common transmission for lawn tractors today is an internal pump and motor drive system called the hydrostatic transmission.
There are two types of these transmissions used in Lawn & Garden equipment, hydrostatic enclosed single and hydrostatic enclosed dual. Everything is enclosed in an aluminum housing. Hydrostatic transmissions are more expensive than mechanical transmissions but they are much easier to use. Hydrostatic – Enclosed Single Most lawn tractors, yard tractors, garden tractors and estate tractors in the last 20 years have an aluminum housing and inside that housing is the pump, motor, differential and drive axle.
These transmissions are sized to the mower application so a lawn tractor trans is designed for mowing and light hauling. A garden tractor transmission is heavier duty and can be used not only for mowing but ground engaging tasks like pulling a The residential models you find on today’s lawn tractors are sealed units and are not serviceable by you. Most of the transmissions have to removed from the tractor for any repairs. As an owner the only maintenance you have to do is periodically clean the outside of the case with a leaf blower or garden hose.
They are designed to give you hundreds of hours of service for normal use. The garden tractor and estate tractor hydrostatic transmissions are heavier and built to handle heavy loads and ground engaging attachments. Most of the hydrostatic transmissions in lawn tractors do not have posi-traction or differential lock. These transmissions are very easy to use. Either a fender mounted lever or foot control varies the speed and direction. The pedal on the left side of the tractor is the parking brake.
You do not need to depress that pedal to shift the tractor. The forward and reverse is controlled by either a lever on the right fender or two pedals on the right side floorboard. To go forward push the fender lever forward or press on the large pedal on the floor board. To stop the tractor pull the lever back to the middle position or lift your foot off the pedal. To back the tractor up pull the fender lever to the rear or press the small pedal on the floorboard. On the fender mounted control you HAVE to move the lever to the middle to stop your tractor.
It will not go to neutral by itself like the foot controls. Hydrostatic – Enclosed Dual Two hydrostatic transmissions are mounted side-by-side in the residential zero turns. Each trans controls a separate rear wheel.
That is the primary reason why zero-turn mowers cost more than the lawn tractors. Again these trans are designed for the application and most are not designed to pull loads, just mow and bag. If you want to pull a leaf vacumn or move dirt in your yard cart this is not the transmission for you. Most of these transmissions are controlled by individual levers called lap bars that sit in front of you. This type of transmission takes practice to keep the tires from digging into your lawn but with a little practice these are very easy to use. A large lever on each side of the seat controls that side transmission.
To go forward push on BOTH levers. To stop, pull them back. (The easiest way to explain how to drive a two-lever zero turn mower is to use a shopping cart as an example. Sears service repair.
With the mower turned off sit on the seat and put your hands on the two large levers in front of you. Close you eyes and pretend you are gripping a shopping cart. What do you do to move a shopping cart forward? Right, you push on the handle.
Right, you pull back on the handle. Correct, you PUSH the handle in the direction you want to turn the cart. Two lever zero turns work the same way. Instead of one bar like a shopping cart, the bar is split in two and you move each side to make it move.) Hydrostatic – Pump & Motor The more expensive commercial zero-turn mowers, stand-ons, and some golf course mowers use a separate variable displacement pump near the gas engine connected to the wheel motors with hydraulic hose or metal lines. These are usually cast iron for long life and durability. A few of the high-end commercial mowers are now using enclosed cast iron hydros.
Electric HyBrid Electric/Gas The All Electric Electric drive systems are found in the mowers like the. Hi Marvin, The E160/170 uses the same transmission as you had in the Bronco. The E160 has 20 inch rear tires and the E170 has 22 inch. Personally, I would choose the E160. It has the 20 inch rear tires. Coupled with the 48-inch deck and the smaller tires will put less strain on the transmission on your hills and the trans will last longer.
Home Depot: John Deere E160 48 in. 24 HP V-Twin ELS If you want a stronger transmission you will have to go to a Craftsman or Cub Cadet garden tractor. Home Depot: Cub Cadet XT1 Read more ». Hi Paul, I’ve been using a Troybilt Super Bronco 50″ cut with the Kohler KT725 24HP engine for 4 years. I have about 3 acres. Some is kind of rough terrain with some slopes and a couple of steep hills. I also weigh almost 400 lbs.
The Bronco has performed very well considering the punishment it has taken but it’s time to get a new one. I’ve been looking at the new John Deere E160/170, although they seem to only come in 48″ cut, but have read that the transmissions may be a little weak on slopes and hills. What Read more ». Does anyone make a manual transmission on a lawn tractor (54″ deck or larger)?
Dodge Dart Gt 2015 Manual Key Machine
I have all kinds of attachments (aerators, rakes, trailers, etc. That I cannot use. I am a victim of the John Deere LA175 that is worthless.won’t even go up a hill. My 30 year old Murray will pull the John Deere up the hill with no problem, but it is starting to suffer from sheet metal fatigue, etc.
Both, Richie Tractor in Knoxville, AND Tuff Torq who makes the worthless hydrostatic transmission in the thing laughed at me for buying it. Tuff Torq told me that Read more ». I bought an Ariens IKON XL 52 after 2 Toro SS zero turns quit running because they kept throwing the drive belts in less than 2 hours of use. Now, with my Ariens at 3.4 hours, I don’t know what that part is called on the left hydro motor, but it lost the tension spring. Also noticed that the lever with teeth that I am assuming is part of the braking system is bent outwards. I’m tired of returning these things as this will be mower number 4 I return to Home Depot and will NOT buy mowers from them Read more ».
Hi, I am looking for recommendations as to a garden or utility tractor for some recently purchased property. I will soon have 2 acre property with very gentle rolling hills. This property will need to be mowed (either drop cutting or mulching). I also would like to either pull 60 gallon sprayer or utilize 3 point version of same sprayer. I also would like to purchase 3 point tiller and snow blower as well. By doing this I can get rid of my existing snow blower, tiller, etc Any recommendations as to what type of unit would best suit my Read more ».
I am looking for a rider mower to handle a less than 1/2 acre lot, flat terrain, very few trees shrubs. Because the lack of my garage space I have been looking at rear engine mowers with smaller foot prints. There doesn’t seem to be many mowers to choose in this category. I like the Cub Cadet CC30H, but the reliability rating is low according to CR.
Have been warned that the use of plastic-nylon gears in their hydrostatic transmissions can be problematic. Do all hydrostatic transmissions use these type gears? Of these brands, Cub Cadet, Troybilt, and Snapper. Which Read more ». I tried to find out the difference between the 20HP through 25HP Kohler 7000 series (KT715-KT740) engines and have been unable to identify a difference except for the carb. They have the same bore and stroke, valves and I think the cam is the same as well.
Is the only difference really just the carburetor? It make sense that it uses the same components to save money in manufacturing. I have a Cub LT46 XT1 which has 22HP and I can’t imagine needing to put the larger carburetor on it for more power. The last time I let Read more ».
I recently purchased my first piece of property so now I’ve been researching lawn tractors until everything is becoming a blurred mess in my head. An experts opinion will definitely help narrow down the search field with so many options out there.
I’ve got about 5 acres of primarily flat land with only a little bit of slope on either side of the driveway. I’ll be doing mostly just mowing and snow plowing. Been keeping my searches around the 48″+ sized decks and preferably under $2500.
I’ve got a little bit of leeway on the price range if the quality Read more ». I have a 2007 Husqvarna 2346xls. Transmission is K46LD. I used it to mow and to pull an overloaded yard cart up hills for years, but that finally caught up with me. Also push a 40″ Berco snowblower in the winter. Now it is fine on flats but even for mowing it seems after the transmission warms up after 10 minutes or so, I can’t go up the slightest incline – no power. The engine, Briggs Vanguard, runs great and has been maintained well.
Would you recommend a new transmission $800 or rebuild kit $300, or am I going to Read more ». Greetings from Winchester, VA. For many years I have mowed my 3 acre yard with an old 1970s Bolens QS16. This is a very stout lawn tractor, though my recently purchased zero turn is much quicker and cuts more cleanly. I hope to get the Bolens working again, however, for hauling purposes in my yard. I have rebuilt or replaced every system and nearly every component in the tractor, including the now obsolete Sustrand hydro 3 times. The hydro is now slipping again, and I hesitate to spend another $800 for repairing it when the repairs only last about 5 Read more ».
I am looking at getting the 2015 Cub Cadet XT2 GX54. The main selling points are the K58 TT transmission and size of the deck. I have also been looking at Husqvarna’s website to try to compare models, but Husqvarna doesn’t list any specs on the transmissions. Do you have any idea what they are using? And, if any of them have a heavier duty transmission (comparable or better than the K58)?
Other direction I may look is the 2014 Cub Cadets because I my 42″ snowblower would still fit on those models (not sure which ones specifically, but it’s Read more ». Would you say that all machines sold today as “Garden Tractors” with hydrostats would have sufficiently-beefy units for hills, 300-600lb towing, ground-engage etc (Obviously, I wouldn’t hold you to it)? If you were potentially looking to buy a garden tractor sometime within the next five years (of 2015), what type of transmission would you most favor/wait for (besides manual)? I ask because for my next garden tractor, I want to make sure I don’t end up with a fragile transmission. Many people seem to have high-hopes for CVT transmissions. Also, if you have any general opinions on Craftsman vs.
Cub Read more ». I’m looking at purchasing a new cub cadet 18 hp or higher but have seen a lot of mixed reviews about them and purchasing them from Home Depot.
I have a very hilly and uneven 4 acres and haul things around with a trailer too. Can you clear up my concerns and do you know if the 2015 models have improvements that may help assist me? I’m looking at spending no more then 1699 and really don’t want to spend the money and find out I have invested in junk. Any opinion appreciated since I have spent hours among hours Read more ».
I am considering the Craftsman 20386 manual transmission yard tractor to replace my Craftsman 917.271831 which I’ve had for about 15 years. Engine still works but it won’t move, and other things are starting to go so it’s time to replace. I can’t find any reviews and am hesitant to buy a model that I don’t know anything about other than what the manufacturer says. I have about 4 acres, flat, not too many obstacles.
I know I want a 42″ deck, 22 HP, 2 cylinder B&S engine, preferably Craftsman. I do some very light hauling (branches). I Read more ». I guess I’ve been spoiled by my old Sears Craftsman II. I bought this mower new I guess it was back in 1986.
It has the 12 HP Brigs engine and the manual 5 speed transmission. The engine is shot and uses about a half quart of oil for every tank of gas I put in. Trying to find a suitable replacement for this mower is becoming a real chore. I have been looking at the Poulan Pro PB20A46 with the 20 HP Kohler engine and the cvt transmission. I run up and down some pretty steep grades pulling a Read more ».
Cub Cadet Gt 2015 Manual 2015 Models
Chaska, MN Paul, I greatly appreciate your articles and education on riding mowers. I have a walkout, so there is a hill on each side of our yard with about 5-6 foot gradual drop over about 20-30 feet. I currently have a Simplicity Regent Hyrdro 14 (leaves a mohawk cut with net gator mulching blades and also mohawk with old mulching blades) and I picked up a 2011 John Deere D130 this winter.
After reading your articles and realizing I have a quality 14HP Vanguard Briggs engine, I am second guessing myself for buying the JD (not sure how well Read more ». Paul, I just found your info, this is fantastic. I have a 3 yo DT3000 Craftsmen that has been great. At the end of the season, it started “jerking”, and then it seemed as if the gears were mashing (usually during a turn). If i went back into neutral, and then back into gear, the mashing sound stopped.
I replaced the belt, and purged per the instructions, but with no luck. This is different than any other description I have found concerning transmission problems on this tractor, so I was wondering if you had any thoughts?
Starting a Snow Clearing Session I After starting the engine of your Snow Blower, pay close attention when engaging the drive system. If the engine strains excessively or stalls, do not retry before checking all moving parts. Snow from a previous session may have melted and re-frozen, locking up critical parts.
Make sure engine is off and try and free frozen parts gently. If necessary, move the blower to a heated area and allow the ice to melt.
Failure to do so may end up in a shredded belt or broken equipment.